"For as long as humans have been swimming in the ocean, we've been riding waves into the beach. That means the history of surfing likely predates the history of writing by thousands of years." (Beyond the Board: History of Surfing - Jeff Hale )
No leash, no wetsuit, surfing Rincon in the dead of winter in the 50s. Listen to Roy Crump tell his story about surfing when it all first began.
Steve Wheat tells his story about how it all began. A stoked grom frothing to ride waves. With surfboards being a rarity in the 50s, how did groms manage to learn to surf? Listen here
“I’m kind of feeling the pressure,”grinned ever-casual Pat Gudauskas. “Can’t let the squad down.”